Tuesday, December 18, 2012

High School Graduation


It’s the end of the year for the students here in Nica.  That means I have a good two-month break from working with my teachers on the Emprendedurismo course.  I went to my favorite schools graduation last night and couldn’t help to reminisce about my own high school graduation as they strutted to the podium in their caps and gowns to receive their diplomas.  Unlike this Nicaraguan highschool, which is a semi-private school for high performing students from under privileged families. They students actually receive scholarships from the school if they meet certain expectations.  I went to Sabino, nick named “Snob-ino” if that gives you a clue.  Classmates of mine rolled up in beamers and I had a 96 Copper Saturn SL2 that I was in love with.  Last night a large chunk of seniors graduated with 90% average grades or higher(they go by percent instead of GPA).  I was beaming as one of my star students, Kenneth, from my Entrepreneurship course gave his valedictorian speech.  I had flash backs of my friend Jeff or “Big Red” giving his speech at my graduation.  I was sitting in the front row because I was graduating with the top 10 in my class, dorks we were, all AP students.  I can remember that feeling that sinks in to your gut when you realize just how much you have invested to get to this point.  I remember the lime green dress I wore(eeeekkkk), which somehow looked good at the time.  I remember the rhinestone sandals that I recycled from prom.  The Sabino garb was a purple robe with a gold sash, which seemed so elegant then.  I remember the beach balls bouncing amongst the crowd and tortillas flying across the 450 of us seniors spread across the football field.  I remember my boyfriend Taylor also wearing a shade of green to match me, I was so lucky to have a first love like him.  My girlfriends, my rocks, Jamie and Erin by my side and Annie was back from college to see me graduate.  My family had all come together for my important day, which made it really special.

I remember them highlighting the universities that students were attending and my name looked so cozy next to the name Texas Christian University on the program.  I had anxiety about leaving everything behind, but also knew I had an amazing summer in front of me before the move to Texas.  The rest of the ceremony was a blur with foghorns and screaming after each name.  At the end of the ceremony we threw our caps in the air and “the group” united effortlessly.  I had an amazing group of high school friends and we were inseparable: Me, Jamie, Erin C., Taylor, Aly, Erin D., Danny, Ryan, Brett, Steve.  Sooo many amazing memories 4-wheeling, camping, prom, my house in Mexico, Springbreaks, and everything else in between.  A lot of firsts with that group who has helped to shape the person I am today. 

My heart actually just skipped a beat when I realized this time next year my 10 year high school reunion will be creeping up.  I’d love to see how everyone is doing out there in the real world.
Then came the after-party at my house of course.  I remember things blowing way out of control.  It was supposed to be a smaller party where everyone could crash and spend the night if they drank.  I remember at one point my brother, boyfriend and Dad having to turn people away at the front door.  I thought my Dad was going to freak when a guy friend of mine, Alex, brought an ice-looge!  Dadio was actually totally cool and got us a folding table so we could position the louge by the pool so any run off wouldn’t stain the flagstone ha ha.  What an awesome night-My bro, his friends, my friends and family all having a very memorable time together. 

Back to Nica.  I know these kids have a very different night ahead of them after they receive their diplomas.  They are still just as rowdy and the teachers continually try to get them to be quite and stop rearranging their chairs during the ceremony.  I am so proud of how hard they have worked all year.  Only a portion of these students will study at a university, but I know all of them will have success in their own way.  I was proud to see that one of my entrepreneurial groups took advantage of the occasion to sell their products, a broom made from coconut leaves, but decorated in holiday ribbon.  Much like my friends and I, my students united after the ceremony in their smaller tight knit groups to take pictures.  I was honored to be pulled in to several small groups and told that It had been a pleasure to have me as their teacher and friend.  I hope that their motivation and passion never dies.  I would really love to truly believe that my presence during their senior has made some kind of difference in how they view themselves as potential leaders, no matter how small.  My counterpart that I work with, Professora Silvia, is one of a kind.  I surprised her with a certificate that I made and had the administration present to her at the graduation for all of her hard work and dedication to the Emprendedurismo course.  She is a pleasure to work with and is an amazing teacher who gives tough love to her students, which I feel is very hard to find here.  I think back on my “tough love” high school teachers and they are the ones I respected and learned the most from.

Escoba Plus- the group that made the brooms out of coco leaves

I thought about how proud their parents must be because I know I am incredibly proud as one of their teachers.  I wonder who they will grow up to be and if they have a desie to make an impact on their country like I do.  I wonder if they really even understand they significance of my presence here in Nica.  And then one of my young girl students comes up to me asnd says, “We are truly blessed to have you here in our country helping our people.  It’s been my pleasure to have you in my life.”


Saturday, December 1, 2012

National Entrepreneurship Competition and Thanksgiving

It's that time of year again when the winners of the departmental Emprendedurism Business Competition travel to Managua to compete at the national level.  I was fortunate to have the opportunity to represent the Chinandegano region with my kids who made a Vinegar from Mimbro, which is a acidic fruit grown in this region.  Yes it is the first of its kind, but there were some much more creative products that they were up against.  There tend to be a lot of food products in these competitions and really we would like to see products that have a positive effective on the environment and/or better people's lives.  This year the competition started with a 2 day congress where the kids and teachers of the winning teams got to spend 2 nights at the hotel in Managua.  We had presentations on opportunities after graduation, how to network, how to legalize and finance your business, and motivational speakers.  I gave the talk on how to legalize and finance your business with another entrepreneur from Leon who had started his own eco-tourism company.  It was really neat working with another experienced individual and I learned quite a bit about the government legalization process here in Nicaragua.

Over all my teachers and students got to mingle with students from all over the country and expand outside of their Chinandega bubble.  They had a great presentation, but did not place.  When I asked them how they felt about the outcome of the competition, they said they felt they did their best, but there were some really great products that deserved to win.  I was very proud of them for realizing its about the experience, not the winning.  The winning product was a mosquito trap that utilized a natural solution to draw mosquitos in, but they couldn't find a way out.  This is a product that will positively effect the lives of the Nicaraguan people, since Malaria and Dengue are a reality in all parts of Nicaragua.  The second place winner was a contraption that connects to a water faucet and that shuts off the water flow when the buoy can tell that the sink is going to overflow.  To put this in to context, many Nicaraguan communities do not have water 24/7, many only at night.  Families will turn their water on during the night to fill up a pila(water bucket) so that they have water the next morning and day.  What usually happens is the pila overflows, wasting water and racking up a higher water bill that the family can't really afford.  This new product will help manage these real life issues.  Needless to say these products deserved to win seed money and recognition for their hard work.

The competition and congress ended the day before Thanksgiving so we stayed put in Managua to spend the holiday with an Embassy family.  Noelle, Kelli and I were placed with Gary and Eve Clements who cooked a fabulous Thanksgiving day meal.  Not only did we get the Thanksgiving favorites, but we got ricotta stuffed bell peppers, quinoa, and butternut squash.  It was a lovely day filled with lots of wine and laughter.


The following day a group of 19 of us headed out to Laguna de Apoyo, which I know I mentioned during my training months because we used to hike down in to the crater and bathe in the crystal clear water on the weekends.  Basically it's a crater of a dormant volcano that has filled with rain water over the years to create a lake and its absolutely beautiful.  We rented a 6 bedroom open air house with a huge kitchen and beach with a private floating dock.  We held the first annual Beer Olympics where we competed in our training town team from back in the day.  The Nandasmo crew or Nandazy-survivors dressed for survival as we all know we had the roughest training town.  With headlamps, duck tape, glow sticks, bandanas and swiss army knives we were set to take on our opponents in a series of 6 events.  We walked away with the gold from flip-cup, surprise!  We wore our crushed beer cans strung around our neck with pride!

Please excuse the flipped up shirts, but this was an event requirement since this is how grown Nica men cool themselves by exposing their huge protruding bellies in the heat of the day



Needless to say it was a great time! The rest of the weekend was pretty tranquilo.  I taught a yoga class one morning and we cooked excellent meals.  It was nice having some down time with a group of people that I have grown to love and truly respect.  Us volunteers keep saying that its amazing how Peace Corps brings people together from all walks of life and many people that I may have never sought out back home are now great friends. To sum up the weekend, it was a great reward after a long school year of hard work with our kids.

I'm not going to lie, I was a tad bit upset that I missed the Latin American Surf invitational in Chinandega where our local ripper Holly Beck took 2nd place.  I got to hear all about it when I got back which just contributed to my FOMO(Fear Of Missing Out).  My puppy Sirena is starting to show personality and play a bit.  The pups are almost a month old and you can see that she is definitely the runt of the litter, but maybe not such a bad thing since she is going to be a massive dog anyways.  Check pics on Facebook.



Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Kel and Julia Visit


October was a heck of a month as I scrambled to finish up my first MBA application to Berkeley(nightmare), sit for the GMAT(nightmare #2) and plan Chinandega’s regional competition for my entrepreneurship class.  It ended with a bang when Julia and Kelly arrived on October 27th to celebrate my birthday and just in time for the annual Peace Corps Gala.  My Small Business Development Project puts on a formal evening each year to raise money for the national competition between the winning student teams from each department in Nicaragua.  Julia and Kelly, although exhausted from traveling, held it together for a night of dancing and the usual Peace Corps shenanigans.  It was awesome to have them meat the majority of my Peace Corps “Family” down here.  They originally flew in to celebrate my 27th birthday, but they got oh so much more!       


Our adventures started out the next day as we headed to my home in Chinandega.  After a quick visit to my house in Chinandega and meeting the family we headed to my second home, the beaches of Chinandega.  We spent two nights at Coco Loco where the gals took surf lessons and went barefoot beach running.  I taught a little yoga and we got to see the baby sea turtles released in to the wild.  We enjoyed the fresh local fair that Coco Loco serves and chilled in the pool with cervezas.  It was really neat to see my Kel and Julia engaged and so interested in the projects that Coco Loco/Waves of Hope are performing in the community as well as the people driving them.
Sunset on Coco Loco Beach

On my actual birthday I woke up at Coco Loco and headed out for a morning surf, ate breakfast burritos with the gals, practiced some yoga and then had a message!  Not bad!  We also kept up or daily ritual of beers before lunch, usually around 11.  In the afternoon we headed over to Marta Montealegre’s house where she threw a little birthday shin dig.  I know I have mentioned the Montealegre’s in my past blogs, but they have become my family down here over the past several months.  Julio and Marta have practically adopted me and given me my own room in their beach house just minutes from Coco Loco.  I feel very at home with them and their family.  Marta had originally said that she wanted to put on a little birthday celebration and have Kelly and Julia stay over.  I casually mentioned to my friends in the community to stop by for some drinks and appetizers that afternoon around 4.   I had no idea she was going to put on a three-course meal and make a tres leches cake!  She made sopa de albondigas or a soup with meatballs made of shredded chicken held together with cornmeal and immersed in vegetables(one of my fav Nica meals).  There were quesadilla like appetizers and tacos to wrap it up.  My jewelry ladies Norma, Hazzel, Maria and Sendi came as well as some local Nicaraguan surfer friends Victor and Yerlis.  Holly and Jackie came from Coco Loco with Waves of Hope volunteers Milo and Edgar making it an eclectic mix, which was really neat.  I looked around the huge circular table and realized that all of the people there have been really great to me and I am honored to have each and every one of them in my life.  After a Happy Birthday serenade I blew out a single number “6” candle since that would be the average age of Marta’s grandchildren, ha ha!  Her tres leches was seriously the best I’ve ever had.  If your not sure what that is, tres leches is a cake that is basically moist with milk and covered with a meringue frosting.  For my birthday present from Marta and Julio I got to choose a puppy from their Rhodesian Ridgeback’s litter.  I named her Sirena and there will be much more posts on her as she grows.



The next day us gals went on a horse back riding adventure down the beach.  It was quite hilarious as I was riding the Montealegre’s horse who only knows one speed, gallop, and Kelly was on a moderately fast horse while Julia was on Molasses, we named her that for a reason.  It was a hilarious day of running up and down the beaches and trying to stick together.  The rest of the day we hung with Marta as she filled us in on how the Nicaraguan war of the 1980’s affected her family and their life as a whole.  We chatted about politics and filled Kel and Julia in on how things work down here, dysfunctionally. Marta is a very talented, intelligent and gracious woman who I now call mama Nica and she calls me hija gringa(white daughter).  I think we all agreed that we could have spent more time at Marta’s house lounging in hammocks and soaking in the view.  The house is gorgeous and right on the beach. But we had a date to climb a volcano the next day so we were off to Hacienda Consiguina.


Hacienda Consiguina is owned by friends/yoga students of mine who were so kind to let us stay for free in their beautiful ranch house tucked at the base of the volcano.  We lounged and chatted over wine that night, entertained by their crazy kittens.  We were in such another world I almost forgot it was Halloween.  The next morning we road in the back of a pick-up truck to Volcan Consiguina.  We were tossed about like rag dolls as the truck sped across peanut fields and started to climb gradually as tree branches smacked us down and sent us flying around the bed of the truck.  It was quite an adventure before we ever started the climb.  At the top we took in the views of the islands of El Salvador and Honduras while listening to monkeys howl from down inside the crater.  I had hiked the volcano once before, but the views were still just as amazing if not more the second time.  After climbing back down we set out on our way back towards Managua, but this time to the beaches outside the city.  We all agreed that about 24 hours was enough time away from the beach and we were glad to be back by the water.  We loaded a big school bus from Chin to Managua for Kel and Julia to get a taste of the open air, 80's beat bumping, public transportation.  At one point we video taped a music video to Titanic's "My Heart Will Go On" for the entertainment of the passengers.  Kel is that video available for public viewing yet? 



We arrived at Los Cardones at night and they don’t have power in their cabins.  It was quite fun switching to head-lamps and candle light.  I think I can speak for Kelly and Julia as well that this place was really special.  Our cabin had a huge porch looking out towards the ocean with hammocks and rocking chairs to take in the view.  It was primitive but oh so quaint.  The waves were awesome and despite my bronchitis that I was sporting at the time, I took advantage of them every morning.  I came down with a cough right before the gals got in to town and with no time to see a doc I kept hacking my lungs up through out the trip and taking my crazy prescribed cough powder medication which I referred to as “crack”.  Honestly I was having such a good time I didn’t really let it phase me accept for the fact that I couldn’t breathe.  Despite my bronchitis we practiced yoga, walked the beaches, surfed and just plain chilled.  We ate some typical Nicarguan dishes and indulged every meal.  At night we sported our head lamps to dinner and then retreated with handfuls of beers to our cabin before cracking open our wine.  The sunsets were incredible, as usual.  I took advantage of the late high tide and did a sunset surf everyday up until the waves coming at me were just a silhouette.  One evening there was so much ocean activity I saw fish swimming beneath me and a stingray jump out of water!  To continue with the animal theme we went on a crocodile search, but only ended up seeing one splash back in to the murky water.

Los Cardones
The last few days at Los Cardones were pretty special as it really set in on just how long it had been since I had gotten to spend some real quality time with my girls.  Our morning coffee/tea ritual looking out at the ocean was one of my favorite activities.  We once again all got messages from the local women and mine happened to be just before we headed out on our last day.  I showed up to lunch after my message on cloud 9 as the girls handed me a beer.  We ate and drank cervezas until our taxi driver Jose arrived.  The catch was Jose was almost 2 hours late, so something like 7 beers later we loaded the truck to head off to Granada feeling pretty darn good.  As Jose sped over the washboard roads we realized that all of Nicaragua would be dry that day.  Before we went in to panic we picked up Jose’s wife and son of 4 years to accompany us to Granada and then found a restaurant in route to sell us tall boys.  On the way to Granada Jose’s son fell in love with Julia and continued to take picture of her on his mom’s cell phone and then stretch her face out like a fun house mirror.  Needless to say he had us rolling in laughter all the way to Granada.  When we arrived to the city and before Jose left we all climbed a bell tower of a church to take in the sunset and views of the city.
The last night we spent at Casa San Francisco with mojitos in the pool and then a roof top dinner.  It was so awesome to share my experience down here with Kelly and Julia.  It was really special to be able to share the life that I’ve built down here.

Kelly took some amazing photos over the trip and captured the sweetness of the country.  Julia and I stopped asking each other where Kelly was once we realized her tennancy to wander off randomly and engage in photo shoots with the local plants.







Tuesday, October 2, 2012

A little goes a long way



I haven’t written in quite some time due to all my extra energy going towards Graduate School Applications and GMAT studying.  The Volcano Evacuation really threw off my study plan and I returned back home to a bunch of unfinished business.  Any who I wanted to take the time and write a blog post about my past weekend because it has touched me in many ways.  I was so thankful to return to my home in Chinandega after not being allowed home for 10 days and it made me realize how great my life really is here in Nicaragua.  Granted I get lonely, a lot, but there are some things that make it worth it.  This past weekend I was offered a ride out to the rural beach community where I help out, by a nice couple Mark and Kay.  The also offered to put me up in there beachfront house so I didn’t have to commute back and forth to Chinandega with the rain and all the hassles that come along with it.  What a treat!  I got to go on a beach run during the sunset Friday evening and then do a little yoga on the rocks over looking the ocean.  I settled in to watch a movie with them in a rocking chair and then fall asleep to the sounds of the waves crashing.  I woke up the next morning to another beach run with the Coco Loco dogs Ocita and Rocco.  I spent the majority of the day working with the Artesenia del Mar jewelry small business, getting them ready to export their jewelry to the States.   These women are always a joy to be around and really appreciate my efforts to help them improve their business skills.   I may have mentioned in a previous post that its turtle season and Waves of Hope has a turtle conservation project where they pay locals to bring in turtle eggs where they protect them until they hatch and then release them in to the wild.  Well Friday night about 30 eggs hatched and we let them loose Saturday afternoon as the tide was going out.  This was my first encounter with a baby sea turtle and they are adorable as they flap about trying to make their way to to the ocean.  My jewelry ladies and Coco Loco friends took pictures and tried to smooth the sand in their path so they didn’t get stuck.  It was a really neat experience, but also heart wrenching to know that only 1 in 100 sea turtles actually make it to adulthood.  After a sunset dip that night I walked the beach under a full moon with a Nicaraguan friend and Coco Loco employee who is in charge of the turtles eggs by keeping track of when they come in and when they should be hatching.  Jaime is his name.  I wanted to see a momma turtle come lay her eggs so we went walking and talking to try our luck.  As we walked we started to talk about the moon and how it affects the tides and before you know we are talking about how the sun and moon are correlated and how that effects the time that you are born until all of a sudden I realize we are talking about astrology.  Eventually the conversation turns to  evolution versus religion and what came first the chicken or the egg!  I was absolutely blown away by his views, he’s not one religion, but views himself as accepting of all religions.  We started talking about energy and karma and how there is no good or evil, it is just what is.  Jaime is from this rural community and can barely write in Spanish, but he is an extremely progressive and intelligent individual.  We chatted about our views on life and how we feel about our work in the community.  He told me that it doesn’t matter to him what people think about him, just about how he values himself and if the work he is doing is helping his community.  He takes a tremendous amount of pride in helping Waves of Hope protect baby sea turtles and strolling the beaches at night to make sure he gets to the eggs before the poachers.  We continued to talk about the different types of people that coexist like those that value philanthropy and those that only want money.  I’ve seen Jaime’s living conditions, its him, his wife, and two daughters in a 10 by 10 room with a stove top outside.  This person is living to give back. An hour and a half later my appreciation for this individual has multiplied times 10 and I want to hug him for reminding me that even when I get frustrated with the culture that not all is lost in this country.


The next day I went horse back riding with Holly to break in her new horses that she bought to use during the woman’s surf camps that she hosts.  We ran the youngins up and down the beach as they shyed away form the water's edge, not too sure what to make of it.  I ate lunch at the Montealegre’s house and finally headed back to the city to work on grad school application essays an study GMAT.  The Montealegre's are beautiful people that live down the beach from Coco Loco.  They are Nicarguan, but raised their sons(my age and up) in the states before coming back to settle in Chinandega.  They are extremely supportive of my projects and treat me as though I am part of the family.  I look back at my weekend and feel very fortunate that there are  people that recognize that life isn't always easy as a volunteer.  Their little bit of charity goes a long way in just helping me feel good while I'm here.

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Volcano Evacuation Vacation

That's what we've been calling this time spent evacuated out of Chinandega for the last 4 nights.  It all started about a week ago when a 7.6 earthquake shook northern Costa Rica that could be felt in southern Nicaragua.    We received tsunami warnings on the Pacific Coast through out the week and there was knowledge that the northern volcanoes were heating up.  Saturday morning around 10 am I noticed the rain clouds moving in quite a bit earlier than normal and with a brown tinge to them.  It wasn't until I glanced at my phone and saw the 13 missed calls and inbox full of text messages, that I registered what was happening.  The largest and most active volcano in Nicaragua, which happens to be right outside my city, was erupting and spewing ash.  The missed calls were from my boss, my site mate, long distance friends and the head of security checking in to see my status.  We were to evacuate Chinandega immediately to Leon city about 45 minutes south and then on to Managua.  At the time I was actually north of Chinandega traveling with some Nicaraguan friends for the day.  If I had been in my house in Chinandega I could have easily gotten on to a bus and out of there.  In this case being north away from any danger, there was no chance I was getting on a bus to return down in to Chinandega were all the action was.  Since I was actually out of the zone that was being effected I was instructed to stay put and wait for someone to come get me.  As the day chugged along the volcanic ash cleared with the wind and things seemed to settle, but Peace Corps continued to gather volunteers all around the Chinandega and Leon departments to bring them to safety.  Around 4 pm the head of safety and security picked me up in the middle of a rainstorm to bring me down to Managua where my fellow volunteers were gathered.  Although the action had wound down, its still Peace Corps' priority to keep us safe and accounted for.

The first two nights after the explosion we were put in a nice hotel in Granada which was plenty far from the volcanic activity and the earthquake prone epicenter of Managua.  After 2 nights of just hanging out, eating good meals and catching up with friends we thought the action was over.  Monday morning the Leon department got the ok to head back to their sites, but the Chinandeganos had to spend the following night in Managua until they were positive that nothing more was going to happen.  The following Tuesday morning we packed up or things to head home.  I decided to do some work before heading back, but just as I called a cab to head out we got the update to stay put in Managua because the volcano was showing some activity.  Unfortunately 5 volunteers had already gotten a head start to their sites and were ordered to stay put in route as yet another mini explosion took place.  Not minutes after that we were all called back to Managua once again.  So here I am in a hotel in Managua starting to go stir crazy.  When you only have a short period to pack up your things, I went for the passport, rain jacket, computer, toothbrush and wallet.  Hind site is 20/20, but right now I'm wishing I had some running shoes, a yoga matt and more clean clothes!  I had no idea that I would be peacing out of my site and not able to go home for 5 days now.  It's not looking good to return tomorrow....

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Momacita en Nicaragua!

All the months of planning and the many skype sessions to plan our epic journey across Nicaragua finally came to fruition July 11th when momacita touched down in Managua!  I had been envisioning the day my mom would finally come to Nicaragua and everything would go completely wrong and make her hate this country, but instead it was quite the opposite.  The taxi to the bus station went well and we even got two seats together comfortably on a public bus.  Things were looking good.

The first few days were spent at Aqua Wellness Resort Outside San Juan del Sur easing mom in to the journey ahead.  Our cabin was upgraded to beach front and sported AC and internet so we were living large.  We practiced yoga, snorkeled, kayaked, and went hiking to look for monkeys.  All of that went pretty well accept for getting stuck in torrential downpoor when spying on monkeys, pero este es la vida Nicaraguense especially during the rainy season. Be ready for rain, ALWAYS!  We ate well and took in the beautiful views of our private bay.  Just two bays down was the International Surf Competition which happened to start the day we left!  I would have been more upset if we hadn't been on our way to the airport to catch a flight to Little Corn Island.
View form our cabana

mom's first Flor de Cana rum drink


After an hour long flight to the eastern coast coast of Nicaragua to Big Corn Island from Managua, we took a half hour long panga(boat) ride across the Caribbean to the undeveloped Little Corn Island.   The panga raced across massive waves to deliver us to an island of about 500 people, half of them being tourists. We hooped of our boat to climb across 2 other boats to finally land on a dock.  There are no motors on this island.  No cars, no motorcycles, no roads for that matter.  Just a boy with a wheelbarrow to help us take our luggage across a dirt path to the other side of the island, in about 7 minutes.  The island is tiny and its parameter can literally be walked in maybe 4 or 5 hours depending on how many beautiful white beaches you stop to rest on.  It has a Jamaican feel as all its residents come from African American decent, but they speak creole which reflects the history of the british that first conquered the area.  Mom and I had our little cabana at Little Corn Beach and Bungalow was right on the beach looking at crystal clear blue water and white sand.  Their pina coladas were the best I had ever had with roasted coconut on top, as my Peace Corps friend Kelli says"they're like your island crack".  It took us maybe one morning to discover all the island had to offer, which in fact was quite a bit.  There are several dive shops, cute restaurants and bars that line one side of the island.  We spent most of our happy hours at bar Tranquilo with my Peace Corps friend McClaine and girlfriend Kelly as well as our new friends, a dutch couple that road the boat over with us.  We hit some amazing snorkeling spots where we saw sea turtles, nurse sharks, manta-rays, stingrays, lobsters and barracudas.  The rest of our time was spent lounging on the beach, doing yoga, or getting a massage. We ate very well on the island. One afternoon for lunch a local women made us Run-Down soup right out of her house which was truly amazing.  King fish cooked in a coconut curry broth with breadfruit, yucca, plantain and potatoes.  At night we visited Bridget's local where you could get a huge plate of several lobster tails any way you like it for about $10.  The two night we ate there I had garlic and then curry, which were amazing and we would have gone back there every night but we wanted to share the wealth.  I didn't leave the island with anything but pictures, a bit of coconut oil, and mother-daughter matching coco necklaces, but it's not a place where you come to accrue things, but realize how unimportant things really are.  It's a truly special place where locals and ex-pats work together to keep their beaches clean and stray dogs healthy, which is extremely rare in this country.

Amazing beaches that stretch forever, literally untouched

Happy hour with McClaine and Kelly, check out our mom-dot necklaces!


After 5 beautiful days we wheelbarrowed our bags across the island to catch the boat back, to get a taxi, to catch our flight, to catch another taxi, to take a bus to get yet another taxi.  All while I'm completely stressing because this is all happening on July 19th, Nicaragua's day of independence after the revolutionary war of the 80's.  As we were heading in a big yellow school bus to Chinandega buses and trucks overflowing with people were heading in to Managua to celebrate.  We had just missed the chaos by maybe 20 minutes.  We could already see the traffice backing up the Pan American highway from Managua.

Thank fully we made it to Coco Loco by 2 pm to enjoy lunch after all those various methods of transport to get there.  The next 5 days would be spent at my second home, Coco Loco, surfing and just plain chillen.  The plan was to get my mom to try surfing, but my first day out on the water I managed to come back with a swollen face and black eye after my board hit me upside the head.  My mom took one look at me and swore off surfing, chillen it was.  We took in amazing sunsets and enjoyed tasty dinners.  It was nice to have her finally see where and with who I spend my weekends with, just really awesome people at a really feel good kind of place.  On Saturday we took a day trip up to Consiguina volcanoe where my friends have a ranch to do the same horse back ride I did with my bro and cousin.  We road through the wetlands and took in the views together as well as a great meal with my friend's fmaily.  On Monday Waves of Hope, the non-profit arm that I help out with held their first ever surfing invitational for the local rippers.  They told the kids to show up at 7 am for a surprise and low and behold!  Holly ended up awarding surf boards to first and second place and my mom donated money which will go to building a repair shack for the local kids to learn how to repair their own surfboards.  We had a lovely time and Mom rolled away with over $200 dollars of jewelry from my women's group who makes earrings, bracelets, and necklaces from local shells and seeds.

Check out the shiner!

There was a tie for 1st place!  The winners with Jamie, Ben and Holly Beck


We finally pulled ourselves away from the beautiful beaches of Chinandega back in to the sweltering city where I live.  Mom trailed around with me to my classrooms, my NGO, my yoga class, and to meet my family.  At times she didn't think she could outlast the heat, but she was a trooper and we made it through our time in the city before heading down south to Granada.  Our last super in Chin was a lunch of albondigas(basically chicken and corn balls in a vegetable broth) soup with my entire family at our house.  My host mom went on and on about how I'm always running of to teach yoga then to teach class and then to salsa and then for a evening run and finally off early to surf.  They said they never see my face because I'm so vaga(always out of the house).  My mom just nooded her head and said, yes that sounds about right, thats my girl.

Mom sneaking shots of me teaching

Mom with my counterpart teacher and the owner of the cafetine where I eat lunch


When we arrived in Granada we were pleasantly surprised to have been upgraded to staying in the hotel owners' house with a beautiful pool and private courtyard.  My friends Kelli and Noelle came from afar to spend the evening getting to know my mom.  We chatted over wine and a nice dinner together to wake up the next day to massages at the house and more hanging by the pool.  None of us wanted to part, but mom and I had to get to Jicaro.  We spent our last three nights together at a beautiful all inclusive eco-resort on a tiny island on Lake Nicaragua, about 20 minutes by boat from Granada.  The island literally had a restaraunt, fresh salt water pool, 9 cabanas, a yoga deck, spa deck and nothing more.  It was so excluded from the mainlaind with Volcan Mombacho hovering in the back ground.  One day mom and I did a hike around the volcanoe base and then kayaked through the hot springs.  We mainly just relaxed and enjoyed the incredible food that was served.

Sunset on the lake

Our lakeside treehouse

kayaking by Volcano Mombacho

At the end of the trip I asked mom what was surprising or unexpected during our travels.  Since we had spent plenty of time in Mexico as I was growing up she said there weren't any surprises really, but she did say that she observed how hard it would be to live here.  Not just in regards of transportation, but access to things, the heat, the culture would all be challenging especially long term.  It was nice to have someone so close to me realize it for themselves.  She did also say that she was surprised how happy the Nicaraguan people seemed, but yet there was still a depressing vibe amongst the country.  After her conversation with a local about the revolution and how the government operates today, she had a better understanding of why.  My mom is one of the most compassionate persons I know and to see her morn for the dogs and want to reach out to the children made me more aware of how I've become numb to the many tragedies that plague this country.  It scared me that I viewed some of these things as normal.  I'll never get used to the burning trash in the streets or the starving animals, but somehow I've began to turn the other cheek.  Having mom here was an opportunity to keep my compassionate side in check and realize that I do have an amazing country to go back to in one year.  I hope to make the most of these next 12 months that I know will fly by.  Thanks mom for an amazing 18 days of great friendship, comfortable traveling and fine dining.  Now its back to reality here.  Miss you a ton already!



Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Bro and Cuz Visit!

Finally the first family members came to visit after a full year down here! I was excited and nervous as I waited at the Managua airport watching Clay and Sarah's flight get delayed on the arriving flight screen. I have never seen two people look more like tourists, and then I had flash backs of arriving in Managua last May with a bunch of gringos and wondered what I looked like then. We made our way up north to Chinandega with both Clay and Sarah reviewing their spanish vocabulary as we passed street signs and billboards in Managua. Our adventure started out waiting for a microbus to fill so we could head north to my city of Chinandega. Sundays are slow for travel so we waited and waited some more as vendors tried to sell me books on reading dreams and give me long winded speeches about how much they love the U.S. Sarah and Clay just stared in exhaustion until we finally filled up enough to take off.

We arrived in Chin with a quick stop off at my house to meet the host family and then straight to Coco Loco, my second home. We reached just in time for one of the most beautiful sunsets I have seen out here. It was a perfect week to be up at Coco Loco as we were the only guests along with one other friend who was visiting the Coco Loco yoga teacher Nikki. The owners Jamie, Ben, his girlfriend Chris, surf teacher Jackie, Waves of Hope volunteer Jason, yoga teacher Nikki and the three of us had volleyball tournaments where we invited the locals to play along with us. Coco Loco's right hand man Orlando took MVP with his spikes, granted the only rule was you had to have a beer at all times. The week consisted of surfing, yoga, volleyball, walking the beach and just catching up over the years the three of us had missed since growing up together.




On Wednesday we had a special invitation to go up to a friend's farm at the base of Consiguina Volcano. Sarah, Clay, Jackie, Jason and I loaded up the truck with Orlando and drove up at 5:30 am. By 7 am we were scaling the side of the volcano in an open air four wheel beast you might know as a unimog. Branches were smacking us through the side of the truck and bugs of all kinds crawled amongst us as well climbed the side of the mountain. Once we reached the top we could peer down in to the crater and see across the ocean to the islands of El Salvador and Honduras. After hiking around the rim and taking in the view we headed back down to the ranch house for lunch.




My friend and owner of the farm Luis and his parents laid out a wonderful spread of beautifully cooked steak, potatoes, salad, rice, local cheese, avocado, and cucumber fresco with vodka. After a few more beers we decided it was time to saddle up the horses and head out in to the wetlands. All of the horses were beautiful, well taken care of and very well trained. We made our way through the wetlands wading through rivers, running across wetlands and even swam with the horses in one area. The river was covered with bright green lily pads that juxtapose the mellow blue of the sky. It was one of the most beautiful places I've ever scene. As we ran through the wetlands water splashed up on and all around us catching the light of the setting sun. Jackie and I at the head of the pack just let the reins go as the horses ran releasing all their pent up energy.



My horse Gatiado, the largest of the pack had to swim across first

We continued to talk about that day as one of the most memorable experiences of the trip. The farm had so much character and a ton of history from the war during the 80s. Of course Luis' family made the experience unforgettable with their hospitality as well. The rest of the week at Coco Loco ended with a bang as we headed to Al Cielo for dinner our last evening. Two parisians moved down to Nicaragua, fell in love with surfing, and built cabanas and a restaurant on the beach close to Coco Loco. The food is absolutely amazing and they infuse their own rums and olive oils. Ben, Chris, Jason, Jackie, NIkki, Ckay, Sarah, and I made our way over to enjoy the sun setting on Nahualapa bay where we surfed each morning. We started the meal with a pineapple infused rum shot and the night just got more out of control from there. The wine, pizza, fish, chocolate mouse and more great food just kept flowing form the kitchen. We ended the night with yet another bottle of wine back at Coco Loco and a mini dance party. The next day it was hard to say goodbye, not because we were hung over, but because we had just spent the week as a close knit family and it was truly a blast!





Saturday we made our way to Granada and happened to meet up with several Peace Corps Volunteers from my group. Sarah and Clay had the chance to meet my best Peace Corps friends, which was really neat for me to mesh both families. Sunday we all watched the soccer game, toured around the city, and did a pre-birthday dinner for Clay with all my peace corps friends that were still left. Kelli went all out and got a chocolate cake to celebrate! Clay's birthday was Tuesday so we decided to celebrate in the morning with a zipline tour on Mombacho Volcano. The three of us got our own tour with two guides that were absolutely hilarious. They were constantly trying to scare us and act like we were going to fall off the platforms when we were really already attached to the line. The zipline itself was pretty mellow compared to the one I did in Costa Rica, but we got to backwards, upside down and on top of each other which spiced it up. 


    

   



Granada is known for its colonial architecture which pulls in plenty of tourism. We stayed at the beautiful Casa San Francisco which is owned by a previous Peace Corps volunteer. The rooms are all unique and ours overlooked their quaint swimming pool and fountain. We decided to be the tourists that we are and take a boat tour of the isletas(mini islands) off the coast of Granada in the gigantic Lake Nicaragua. My Peace corps friends Luis joined us on what we turned in to our own booze cruise. We stocked up on beer and headed down to the dock like dorky tourists in a horse drawn carriage. Our guide ended up being a really neat guy who gave us a personal tour and history lesson on Granada. At one point we had a monkey named Lucy chillen on our boat with us a we enjoyed our cold beers. It was amazing to hear about the famous individuals who had purchased these islands and see the high quality of architectural talent that went in to building the houses that inhabited them. After yet another solid Birthday dinner of pizza and pasta we headed to a bar named Imagine where we jammed the rest of the night away to Neil Young, Crosby Stills and Nash, the Doors and other great classic rock hits.


Our last full day together was spent at the famous Laguna de Apollo which you may have seen in my earliest posts from training. It was a blast from the past sitting along this beautiful lake's shores deep inside the volcanic crater and looking out in to the crystal clear water. It took me back to the days of training where there was no freedom and this beautiful place was my only escape on a Sunday morning. I remember the hour hike straight up and down to reach this paradise. Funny how much has changed since then.





Over all it was an amazing trip and it was hard to watch Clay and Sarah leave. It was just like the good old days when we spent our summers together growing up. I'm really lucky to have such an awesome brother and cousin! You guys rock! Thanks for coming to see my life down here! And special thanks to Sarah for teaching us the drunk shakey face!