Coco Loco

Coco Loco to me is a little piece of heaven.  I spent last weekend, which is also my second weekend at this lovely little place, lounging and taking in the deserted beaches on Nicaragua's Northwestern pacific shores.  Not 45 minutes in a taxi from my city brings you to a paradise that will be my home away from home over the next two years.  Canadian owners Ben, Jamie, and Lindsay have become really important in my Peace Corps experience here.  Coco Loco is a surf eco-lodge with a handful of cabanas close to the beach and a real community feel.  They employ local Nicaraguans from the tiny community and also have their nonprofit arm Waves of Hope that draws volunteers mainly form the U.S. to come spend 3 or more months working in the community.  Waves of Hope teaches english to the village's youth and adults, hosts soccer leagues and organizes surf camps for those kids who are neglected and abused at home, and helps with community gardens for the locals and teaches environmental sustainability.

The for profit arm is Coco Loco where people come from all over to indulge in some of Nicaragua's best surfing and practice yoga on their huge pavilion over looking the ocean.  To reward us Peace Corps Volunteers these beautiful people have let us come and stay at their all inclusive resort for less than half the price a normal customer would pay.  They stuff us with good food and make us feel right at home.  This past weekend they gifted me a basil plant because I said I was having a hard time finding it in the market.  They realize that like them we are giving our lives over these next 2 years to selflessly help our communities and there fore they reward us with a place for some R&R at an affordable price.

It is here at Coco Loco I had my first chance to surf in Nica and it will definitley be a huge part of my life going forward.  I can't help but feel completely tranquilo when I'm surrounded by the people that make this place happen.  I love that the dogs and cats can run around freely. At night the lightning bugs come out and the lighting display over the ocean is breathtaking.  If any of you come visit me, Coco Loco is a must!

http://www.elcocolocoresort.com/

It's not uncommon to run in to Erlin right around dusk as he drives is cattle along the beach back to their pens for the night.  He always comes back to let us ride his horse along the beach and chat as the sun sets.

These beaches are literally untouched accept for the few Nicarguans that have raised their families on that beach for ages.

The view from the restaurant where we chill and eat food cooked form their garden.

Our cabana

Newest member of the Coco Loco family, ocita!

Doesn't this picture just make you want to buy a ticket to Nica right now?  Do it! I'll be waiting!

My Chinandega

I have finally found the time to take photos of my new house so you can all see where I reside here in Chinandega.  Yes, my house is purple, I hate purple, but in this case I think I can deal since the family is so incredibly awesome.

 The living room is the first room you walk in to from the front door.  Sofas are a rarity in Nica.  Most people have plastic or wooden chairs so I am feeling very lucky.  Last night I curled up in a sofa chair to drink liters of beer and watch a movie with my 24 year old host brother Jose and his friends.  The next photo is of Ralph, our six month old puppy.  He likes to steal the family's underwear/ intimates and drag them all over the house.  Last night he came running in to the living room with my bra in his mouth while all the guys just starred uncomfortably until my host brother asked if it was mine, oh Ralph.

 I absolutely love this kitchen!  My host sister Sandra and I both love to cook so we spend most of our quality time here.  Please note that there is a microwave and a wine rack, two things that signify a well equipped kitchen here in Nica.  We also have an oven, which I de-flowered after several years of no use, by cooking the family brownies.  They were a big hit!

This is the hallway that leads from the living room and kitchen to all the other bedrooms.  That light you see pouring in through the arches is straight from the good ole outdoors.  A lot of houses here are open air since it never really gets cold.  Along the right had side their are flower beds where I have my basil planted.  Sargo and Ralph are also featured.  My room is at the end of the hall where it the house breaks out in to an open air patio where we dry our clothes and I get a breeze!

That's my yogi toes matt drying behind the jeans!

My room is a mess right now, but you can see that one wall is all dark wood shelving and closet space, which is unheard of here!  I'm standing in one corner of my room which leads around a wall to my own bathroom.

I live just four blocks from the central park and Santa Ana Iglesia.  I swear I'll take pics of the inside next time.

The central park is littered with jungle gyms and brightly colored stands that sell food.  You can barely see San Cristobal Volcanoe in the distance due to the fog that sets in after the rain.

This is one of the three open air markets where I get a majority of my fruits and veggies!

Hopefully all these visuals give you a better context of what I'm writing about in my blog.  This last week was definitley more play than work as Nicaragua celebrated their independance also known as Fiestas Patrias.  Basically all my classes were cancelled for the entire we in honor of the parade that takes places featuring all the high schools in the city.  The students were too busy practicing their marching and musical instruments to learn a single thing.  As frustrated as I got with the lack of progress on our business plans, I had a great time marching and representing one of my schools in the parade.  I marched with Filemon Rivera, which is a small semi-private high school.  The Director who I am close with made me a traditional Nicaraguan shirt to wear and match the rest of the teachers.(See below).  Does the yellow church look familiar?

 Here we are marching through the central park next to the yellow church of Santa Ana.  Ahead of me are my students who are dancing a traditional Nicaraguan folklore dance in traditional dress.

Here I am with my counterpart Silvia who is actually a doll despite that look on her face.  We work closely and Monday's are our days to eat out together.  She is one of my favorite people here.  She is working towards a bachelor's degree right now on the weekends while teaching and raising two beautiful children solo.  After we marched through the hot sun for about 3 hours the director treated all of us to a grand lunch of Albondigas soup.  Albondigas translated to meatballs, but its tradition here to make a soup with meatballs made of maza and chicken while an array of veggies accompany the mmeatballs in a rich broth.  Needless to say this is one of my fav Nica meals!

Due to the lack of classes and businesses being closed I took the opportunity to take a mini vaca to the beach with several volunteers to Coco Loco and see some of my best girlfriends from my months of training in Masaya, but that's the next post.  The night of the parade is also a popular night to go out so my host brother and his friends invited myself and my site mate Lindsey to a night out of dancing and rum.  We had a great time and found ourselves at an On the Run at 3 am eating Ramen Noodles, go figure but they are a huge hit here!

All in all not too much more to report on accept that life is good, really good.  Everything has gotten 100 times better since I moved in with my new family who obsesses over my funny quirks and teaches me knew things everyday.  Just yesterday my host brother almost had a heart attack when he saw me walking around the house barefoot, heaven forbid!  Nicas just don't walk around barefoot, even in their own house, I don't have an answer so please don't ask.

Not too much else to report on accept that there is a lot of rain, everyday after hours of blazing sun, around 4 en la tarde the storm rolls in.  Please note that I have changed my Acuweather gadget on the right hand side of my blog to reflect the weather here in Chinandega.  Please also note the temperature listed under "real feel" which takes in to account how one actually feels with the ridiculously high percentage of humidity in the air.  So when it says its 85 degrees F in Chinandega with a "real feel" of 109 F you can start to feel bad for me and then send me a care package, just kidding, but not really.  Some of my shoes have started to mold and even my pillow is affected by the massive amounts of humidity in the air.  Oh the random challenges that pop up from living in a new environment, gotta love it!  I thought it was hilarious tonight watching my host bro and sis fight over the amount of bleach I should use while washing the mildew out of my pillow.  It was quite the debate and a spectacle to watch three 20 somethings try and wash a down pillow.  Later on my sis asked me if I was bored here in Nicaragua compared to the states, how could I be?!

Creativity Showcase

I wanted to dedicate a post to the local artists of Chinandega and Leon who are featured here.  I was so impressed with the talent that was present at the art show last week that I felt compelled to share more.  This display of creativity opened my eyes to the fact that even though I struggle with the idea of creativity in the business sector, there are other influences in my community that are helping change the way people view the creative realm.  Also to my surprise, these pieces of art are priced in U.S. Dollars and are not cheap!  I guess its a good thing that these artists know how valuable their work is and take pride in their originality.  I hope you like what you see! Sorry the lighting isn't so great...

I thought the colonial building of the Fundacion was worth featuring

My Favorite- Anciano con Lena

Caballos, Unicornio e Hipocampo

by Mariano Navarro

Mercado Colonial

by Dorado

Los Cocos

Villa de Nuestra Sra. Sta. Ana

Autor: Lester Artola

Metamorfosis

Autor: Mariano Navarro

New home, new family!

So I’m finally posting this blog from my new host family’s house with my new access to wi-fi! How exciting is that? I’ve had a few experiences lately that have caused me to forget that I’m in the developing country of Nicaragua. One being Jamie’s visit! Seeing a best friend from home sent me on an emotional high ha ha! It’s crazy to think I haven’t seen anyone that I knew prior to my life in Nicaragua for 4 months! It was lovely to share my city of Chinandega and the surrounding beaches with Jamie and her boyfriend Paul. Nothing like reminiscing with your best friends, even though you’re worlds apart from how things used to be. I hope that I gave them an accurate taste of the grunge, grease(food), heat, beaches, and loving people that make up this country in a short 4 days! It was great to let myself go and act like a backpacking American for a weekend too! Miss my James already!


Something else that took me by surprise was an art show at a Fundacion Coen that was held to showcase and support local artists. I was very impressed by the amount of talent that was represented in my region. I felt like I was perusing a New York City up and coming art exhibition as I took in the paintings of beautiful Nicaraguan landscapes and markets. I think this display of creativity took me off guard since this country is plagued with people who refuse to think outside the box. I was very proud to feel a bit of progress in the right direction with in my community. It gave me the satisfaction that with time there can be change in the way Nicaraguans think. Afterwards my friend Lindsey and I joined our new friend Eugenia who is the director of the nonprofit for a great meal under a traditional rancho style hut, while the table of Argentineans bought us drinks! What a treat!




My favorite painting from the show - Anciano con Lena (Old man with firewood)

Taking it back to reality though I’ve had some pretty hot days with the humidity making it hard for my clothes to dry and contributing to some rather uncomfortable bus rides ending drenched in sweat. I don’t think I’ve gone in to much detail about Nicaraguan buses, but its quite a riot. Many buses are completely pimped out as they are individually owned by their driver. The buses are typically retired American school buses that make their way down here and seem to run just fine well past their U.S. shelf life. They will pack the buses until there is literally no room to breathe or even sweat for that matter. I usually exit my usual Monday morning bus to my one of my institutes dripping. I’m reminded of how beautiful I must look when my students comment how much Profe is sweating. Never the less Monday’s are one of my favorite days as I share a nice typical Nica lunch of either marinated meat or a tasty stew with my counterpart Silvia sitting outside gazing at Volcan San Cristobal as it puffs smoke in to the blue sky. This Monday was Sopa de Mariscos with shrimp, crab and fish. These are the days I really like Nica food.

Another reminder that I’m not in the U.S. was when my iPod quit on me and there is no real solution to that problem except to wait until I come home next. What? No Apple store with people waiting to serve you? Bummer huh?

On the other hand, and much more important than an iPod is my new host family. They are awesome and everything I ever wanted from a Nicaraguan family. I have a host mom Patricia and Host sister Sandra(26) and host brother Jose(24) who are a lot of fun and very sociable. Sandra introduced me to Mondongo soup on Sunday, which is cow stomach in a vegetable stew, god bless her. Last night Jose’s friends came over and I got a guitar lesson in Spanish! We shared our favorite artists and compared music industries in the U.S. and Nica. My host mom works in management for a large construction company and Jose is just starting up his own software engineering business. Sandra is just about to finish her degree in engineering as well. Sandra is also 3 months pregnant, with no father figure in sight, which is not uncommon here. So in 6 months there will be another girl in the house! It’s so great to be able to sit down and have an educated conversation about life here in Nicaragua with my family and share some of my traditions, like brownies!

As I mentioned, I have wi-fi and the other perks, like running water through out the house and having pet dogs makes life just that much better. My family was sweet enough to paint my room before I moved in and have made me feel right at home. I also have confidence that they don’t think I’m too crazy because apparently they had a gal from Holland live with them for a year way back when.

Sunscreen and bug spray, two things I can’t live with out and seem to go through at an increasing speed! The sun is strong and the mosquitoes are plenty during the more intense months of the rainy season(Sept and Oct). I have to say that I really don’t mind the torrential downpours that sweep in and cool everything off. Heaven forbid, but I’ve actually come close to feeling a chill in the air at night.

Work is going well as I plan for my student’s business competitions at the regional and local level. Tomorrow I will visit micro loan recipients from Fundacion Leon to see how their businesses are going. Each day I reflect on what my work means here in Nicaragua. I find myself contemplating about what type of impact I want to make here and exactly how I am going to make that happen. There is still so much to learn about my community’s needs and what my skill set can offer. I came across the following quote in some reading materials I had on community development and it made me realize how much I do enjoy this life I lead, right here, right now.

Socrates believed that it is through this kind of

thinking [critical thinking, reflective thinking] that

people shape their lives.

He felt people need to think

about what they do and why they do it,

about what they believe and why they believe it.

He said that a day should never pass without such

questions and that a life without such questions

is not worth living.


— Boostrom, Robert.

Week 3 update!

Week three in Chinandega flew by as my work is really getting off the ground!  I’ve partnered with Microfinance Institution Fundacion Leon 2001.  I spent my day yesterday in the neighboring city of Leon judging local entrepreneurs as they presented their business plans in hope of scoring a micro loan.  Down the road, I will be following up with the loan recipients to make sure that they are keeping their finances together and running their small business successfully.  The idea of entrepreneurship is so different here with the lack of education and creative thinking.  I was so disappointed when a young lady presented her business plan to open a clothing store even though she would be finishing her law degree next year.  People just don’t know how to take their future and careers to the next level.  Society has grasped that the rare opportunity for a college degree is in fact a great thing, but they never seem to utilize it to its full potential.  Culture here also stands in the way.  I watched a young 20 something present her business plan to open a small convenient store while her 3-year-old ran around the room.  This is very common here, a young mother trying to save her future with a little one to look after and a father who was never in the picture. 

Occasionally a young person with a great idea will come forward and set an example, but its interesting here how people aren’t looking to be the hero or the free thinker.  People would rather do something safe and riskless to mesh in easily with the rest of society instead of challenging its boundaries.  It’s rather frustrating from my end.  I ask such questions as “how are you going to gain clients over you competition?” and the common answer would be to offer discounts, but they just don’t get that offering discounts doesn’t make their business any better than their competition who does the same thing.  I get really worked up because that’s my goal over the next 2 years is to try to get the youth and women that I work with to think outside the box.

A more relaxing topic is my Sunday by the beach.  I think I may have already mentioned that it’s only a 15 min bus ride to a beach scattered with ranchos that play music, serve cold beer and a whole fried fish platter.  It’s a perfect day after a long night of dancing at the local discotecas.  Sundays are the big day to go as all the locals are taking advantage of their one real day off.  A fun Nica fact is that bathing suits aren't worn.  Instead people hit the water fully dressed.  No joke, I'm talking women in skin tight jeans and collared shirts with a full face of make-up just run straight in to the ocean.  I cant imagine how uncomfortable all that wet clothing would be!  Anyways, I joined a few volunteers to eat, swim and relax this past Sunday.  Although I have Sundays off too, it seems that I constantly need to be on my best behavior as several of my students frequent the same beach with their families.  Peace Corps will preach how volunteers work 24/7 because people are always watching us and we need to set a good example for the U.S.  This is 100% true.  I realized just how true as I was walking along the beach in my bikini back to my friends with a plate of fish and a beer in my hand when a young man shouted “Hola Profe!” which is short for profesora or teacher in english.  Whoops!

On another exciting note, I found a new place to live!  I ran in to another American the other day here in Chinandega who has lived here for 8 years.  Her in-laws are Nicaraguan and have a very nice house, which is much more centrally located and in a much nicer neighborhood than where I am now.  The house has actual sofas(very rare here) and a full kitchen!  I’ve been cooking on a simple gas burner so imagine my excitement to see a microwave and oven!  I will have my own bed and bath and brace yourself because they have, a washing machine and dryer!  No more hand washing laundry, well for the most part.  I think the thing I’m most excited about is free Internet!  I’m really lucky to have found a welcoming family who is well off and is happy to have me live with them.  I’m looking forward to the change.

But I’m even more looking forward to Jamie’s visit this weekend!  She should be here in about 2 days!  I can’t wait to see her face!

I’ll leave you with a quote I thoroughly enjoyed from one of my tea bags because I think it accurately describes how I am viewing my work here in Nicaragua.

“Your life is based on the capacity of energy in you, not outside of you”- Yogi Tea Bag

Making Chinandega Home

I’ve been in Chinandega for a whole two weeks now and life has changed so much now that I’ve gotten to my site.  My first weeks have been jammed packed, challenging, and exciting all at the same time.  Some highlights have been getting to know my students and teachers in my institutes via class and a 50^th Anniversary Dance Performance Celebration at one of my schools last Friday night.  I attended one of my counterparts son’s 1^st Birthday party.  Got some surfing in as well as a narly sunburn.  I’ve met new volunteer friends, Nicaraguan locals, attended salsa dance class from a well-known local, and identified my future guitar teacher.  I’ve really enjoyed discovering the local eateries, using public transportation and investigating the city grid via my new bike. 

This last Saturday was my region’s Peace Corps Anniversary Celebration for 50 years of service around the world(Are you seeing the 50 yr theme?).  It was great to meet all 32 volunteers in my region and put faces with names.  Many of us decided to celebrate that evening with a reggae concert at a beach side club, which was a real treat.

I’ve also encountered some challenges like another parasite and a head cold.  Living with in my budget is not only going to be a challenge, but down right near impossible in a city.  Cooking for yourself in a foreign country is quite a challenge as well as when you’re starting from scratch.   I’m lucky that there are grocery stores with packaged goods, but it’s cheaper to trudge through the packed open-air markets for fruits, beans, tortillas and vegetables.  My biggest cooking accomplishment was fish tacos this last week.  When I don’t feel like cooking after a long day I’ve also identified a great pupusa joint as well as American fixes for hamburgers, chicken wraps, subways and paninis, but that’s about it for American food so hope that lasts me for 2 years!  I have actually found myself craving Nicaraguan Fritanga food, which is fried street side fair!  My favorite place serves grilled chicken, rice, beans, cabbage salad and fried plantains.  Yea that’s right I actually think about wanting to eat Nicaraguan food, its really good up here in Chinandega! There are other expensive Nicaraguan restaurants that my budget would only allow every great once in awhile.  Can you tell that a majority of my day is spent thinking about food?  I think it has something to do with the fact that I have such limited access that we constantly obsess over food as volunteers and fantasize about things we miss ha ha.  For me its asparagus, salmon, scallops, spinach, red peppers, hummus, good cheese, wine and really good deserts!  Oh god I have to stop!

I’ve been meaning to take my camera around the city to take pictures of all the cathedrals and points of interest.  Chinandega is by no means a touristy city and this rubia sticks out like a soar thumb.  I think I’m probably the only blonde girl in town besides another blonde woman who I met at the bank this weekend who owns a hotel out on the coast.  I’m told daily that I’m beautiful and quotes such as “ahh mommy”, “I love you”, and “Guerra Bonita” are all too common.  Self-esteem booster right?  Not! Usually these comments are accompanied with some other atrocious comments that I ignore.  Even though I’m in a big city I cannot avoid the machismo culture that plagues this country.  Women are a piece of meat on the street and men behave as such.  I guess the positive is people will get to know me really quick if I look like such an outsider it’ll be hard to forget me!

Work wise I’m really enjoying the different institutes where I’m assisting my teachers in teaching the Entrepreneurship coarse.   I’ll also be working with the mayor and local school system to organize a regional competition for all the business plans that come out of my course.  I’ve met with several nonprofits these past weeks to identify where I can add value in areas of microfinance, business training, and consulting.  I’ve already agreed to assist a fellow HIV/Health volunteer with a group of sex workers that he works with to identify ways they could start a business instead of surviving off of selling their bodies for a living.

I feel very fortunate to have some really great site mates here in the city of Chinandega.  I give major props to the volunteers out there that are going through this whole process in a really rural community and with out other volunteers to show them the ropes or support them.  I have to say having the Peace Corps network has made the transition to life in a foreign country that much more manageable.

No major concerns accept for skin cancer.  The sun is hot and strong and I’m doing a ton of walking and biking.  Oh and did I mention its ridiculously hot!  I find myself escaping to bars or the bank for AC!  Holy cow I sweat so much here! Ok kids stay cool for me!

"Swearing-in" and meeting President Ortega

I’m at my new home in Chinandega laying on my queen mattress staring up at my mosquito net realizing that I’m definitely not in training anymore.  I think this past weekend’s events of transitioning from a trainee to a volunteer will prove to be my favorite memories of my time here in Nica. Thursday was spent at the US Embassy learning about their various government roles here in Nicaragua.  Friday morning we “swore in” at the very luxurious Holiday Inn in Managua.  We took an oath to serve the people of Nicaragua and simultaneously the United States Government for the next two years as a Peace Corps Volunteer.  Since 2011 marks the Peace Corps 50^th Anniversary our swearing-in ceremony was done up rather large and we even invited President Daniel Ortega.  Unfortunately he was unable to make the ceremony, which was accompanied by the Ambassador and VP of International Affairs.  President Ortega wanted to recognize the 50 years of service that Peace Corps has provided and supported his country so he decided to invite us to his house that evening!  All 43 of us volunteers who swore in, plus several Peace Corps staff joined Ortega in his press conference room for what turned in to a three-hour ordeal.  Ortega had a list of all of our names which he called one by one so we could stand with a mic and answer his questions…..in Spanish…..broadcasting live on TV, can we say nerve racking?!  It was quite an experience that will stick with me through out my service.  He asked me personally where I was from, what I studied in college, if I had work experience, and what I would be doing in Chinandega.  He also threw in a last minute question asking me if I liked the food I had tried here in NIca, random right?  We all left the President’s house dumbfounded by what had just happened.  I think we all figured that our invitation was for a quick chat and speech and then be sent on our way.  No one expected to be singled out and interviewed over a 3 hour time period!  It was truly an unforgettable experience.  Even though President Ortega is a socialist, I did appreciate him taking the time to make each and every one of us feel special.  It really says a lot in his efforts to work jointly with the US Government to better Nicaragua.

I think the best part about this weekend was that our hotel had a pool, which I was physically in the majority of our stay.  We played frisbee in the pool, drank in the pool, chicken fought and just plain chilled.  And when I say drink, I mean we drank, everything from champagne and wine to rum and bloody marys.  It was awesome to have everyone in the same spot enjoying each others company just chillen with a guitar making its rounds.  Our last night we all(40+) went out to an outdoor club(ranchito) which is basically a dance floor covered by a hut where we ended up drenched in sweat as we danced the night away.  It was hard to say good-bye the next morning as we departed for our different sites all over the country.  We won’t all be together again for another three months until we have another week of language training in October.

I can’t believe that I made it through the 3 months of training!  My host mom attended the swearing-in ceremony and then that was that, not a whole lot of emotion there ha ha.  I swore in at Intermediate-high level Spanish, which is higher than required so I felt good about that. I definitely treated myself for making it through that rough patch with good food in Managua and a mani/pedi in Nandasmo before I left.  Kelli’s host brother is a hairstylist and paints nails.  He did a very nice French manicure for the equivalent of $4.

Another treat coming my way is Jamie!  My girl is visiting me the last week in August and I can’t wait to see her face.  Miss and love you all!